Going North - Part I

Nortada is a word any Portuguese seafarer knows quite well! It refers to the predominant wind along the coast, that as the name reveals, comes from the North quadrant. Once it settles, the Nortada can stay for as long as a week, sometimes more. It is also the reason why the Portuguese coast its so easy to sail down, but so hard to sail up. Nortada is usually quite strong, sometimes reaching over 30 knots, creating some high and short waves that seriously hamper boat progression. The average sailor would say that sailing North in Portugal with the Nortada is in the least foolish, and at the most outright crazy. Nevertheless, this is what we at Clavadel set out to do last week, which means we are either very foolish and crazy, or we are just not the average sailors. Probably, a combination of both!

The project involves understanding the geographical organization of the genetic variation in Portuguese dolphins. This means animals have to be sampled from several different locations along the coast. Last year we pretty much covered the South of Portugal up to Sines, and this year we are going to do the North. After the first week completing sampling in the South (Portimão), Clavadel had to go up North. This means covering 330 nautical miles up the coast until Porto. In a sloop like Clavadel, this can be done with a small crew, but it has to be experienced. The first person I recruited was José Póvoa, who to the people participating last year needs no introduction. He spent 5 weeks on board Clavadel last week, arriving with almost no experience and leaving knowledgeable enough to pretty much do anything on board (including lifting and dropping anchor by himself). When I told him about my plan his answer was straight enough: "That sounds very good!". He would be the helmsman.

As 1st mate a heavyweight crew member whose experience would be a very important asset to this trip.

So, with the crew complete all we needed to do was check the forecast and plan accordingly. On the 22nd we left Portimão at the end of the afternoon planning to go straight to Lisbon with the Nortada. As we left the strong north wind immediately showed it's grace and we were soon doing 7 knots with full sails on, in a great sailing evening. Things were looking good and soon we were sailing into the sunset...

However, as we approached the cape S.Vicente things started to become much more grim. Wind was increasing, dangerously approaching the 30 knots mark, and waves were becoming bigger...much bigger! 1st mate immediately warned:"We have too much sail on!". He was right, and we rushed to the front to change the genoa for a smaller jib. Given the high waves, this was similar to a roller-coaster ride with right to some cold showers. As we were not expecting it, this meant we soon were soaked!!! As we approached the cape, it was clear the wind was just too strong and the waves too big. In addition of still having too much sail on, the dingy revealed to be ill secured for such a crossing and soon I had to hold it with my hands to keep it from swinging vigorously from side to side. It was clear we were in no conditions to cross the cape in this moment, so we just decided to drop anchor at the last safe bay before the cape (Mareta) and sort things out before moving on. At 0030 we dropped anchor at Mareta and went to sleep. We needed rest before moving North up to Sines.

The next morning we started by securing the dingy appropriately and reefing the mainsail by furling it in the boom. We needed to decide how many turns. 1st mate suggested 3... I was thinking 2, so just for sure lets make it 3. The problem with cape S.Vicente and Nortada is that you never know what you are going to find on the other side. Would we find the constant mild wind we needed to go up to Sines, or would it just increase making it impossible for us to progress? There was no way for us to know except to go out there and check.Forecast was grim... Nortada was settled in full strength. We would have to do 60 miles upwind in what is known by sailors as the dark coast. There are no ports and only a handfull of lighthouses until Sines. "So, 60 miles upwind with no possibility of stopping." 1st mate said, with a voice intonation that slightly suggested crazy! "Lets do it... we set sail and we decide as we approach the cape and get a feel of the conditions" he then suggested.

As we went along wind increased steadily. Fortunately, conditions weren't as bad as the night before so wind just topped to 27 knots. As we were crossing, wind direction changed to northwest which meant we would have the angle. "The wind is turning and it doesn't seem to be increasing at all... as for now we are doing fine... I think we can do it..." said 1st mate. I couldn't agree more! At 1200 we tacked and we started our ascent North. We still lacked the right angle, but we would tack again further north were the wind would be hopefully weaker and get away from the coast to get the right angle to get to Sines.

Things went according to plan and we were doing great. In front of Praia do Amado we tacked and we had some great wind. 1st mate was still on the helm since the last night.. Zé was supposed to be the helmsman but 1st mate just wouldn't let go of it!!! He would actually only be released for about 3 hours by me, but spent pretty much all the time at the helm. "You've got to be tired! Let me replace you for a bit" Zé would say. "I'm fine... I'll get tired eventually... save your strength..." 1st mate would reply. I've never seen anyone hold that long! However wind was increasing and eventually came back to topping 27 knots. Waves were big and we were rollercoasting along them. Zé eventually gave up to seasickness and had to go down to rest and resist it. Eventually night settled in and we were sailing at night under the most star filled sky ever. The north star was right in front of us, and so was Sines!!! We arrived at 0100 and dropped anchor helped by Zé (who had recovered by now). In Poland, a boat that can effectively sail upwind is said to be brave. Once in Sines we all drank to celebrate the brave ship we had just sailed upwind. Clavadel is a brave boat indeed!!

Next day we took the time to rest and prepare for the next crossing up to Lisbon. It was previewed to be somewhat quieter but it was along stretch. We had to go wide to avoid the high waves that inevitably form around Cape Espichel, and to get the right angle to sail upwind. We also took the chance to dry some clothes and do some shopping. Next day started at 0400, and at 0500 we were leaving Sines.

Ironically,the wind was very soft not reaching over 14 knots. I knew the Nortada would eventually show up so I just waited... and waited... and waited...and then got tired of waiting and changed the jib for the genoa again! At this time we were quietly sailing along the bay of Setúbal. However, we soon were in cape Espichel, and the wind rose again. Soon I had to change the genoa for a jib again. With the high waves this was more than exciting. I was extremely tired at the end of the procedure, and worse of all, I was getting seasick! As I got back to the cockpit I sighed "How I love sailing!!!". "Of course you do!" said 1st mate. The journey was going smoothly and on time however, and the occasional showers just added to the fun. Just look how happy Zé was after one of them!!!

As we progressed further into the protection of the Lisbon Peninsula the waves started to get smaller, and we were soon sailing in the most amazing conditions. Strong wind made us go fast in a very quiet sea. At 1800 we moored at the Algés marina just as we predicted. At the reception, when the gentlemen there saw the port of origin (Portimão) he asked: "And did you had a good trip?!". We had just sailed 140 miles upwind against the famous Nortada, so I replied "Yes,we had a great trip!!!".